Самая бюджетная и эффективная выхлопная система

На Caprice/Impala SS существует не менее десятка различных выхлопных систем и столько же вариантов трубчатых выпускных коллекторов. Они очень заметно разнятся по цене, а иногда и по характеристикам. Готовить отдельное руководство покупателя по ассортименту этих товаров придется долго, но я хотел бы поделиться одним рецептом, который был изобретен и воплощен в жизнь одним из активнейших участников ImpalaSSForum.com - Кори "Mr.Buick" Магнером (Cory Magner). Общая стоимость компонентов в США (на Summitracing.com, если быть точным) составляет совсем смешную сумму, так что в любом случае это ОЧЕНЬ бюджетный вариант - при этом производительность, особенно в версии с диаметром труб 3", будет не ниже, чем у готовых наборов, стоящих гораздо дороже. Не забывайте, что в данную систему входят и коллектора, а не только "кэтбэк". Ниже я цитирую мою переписку с Кори (она достаточно длинная, но там затрагиваются и другие вопросы, ответы на которые могут быть интересны):

ALT-F13: Hi Cory,

It seems that you're an expert in B-body exhaust questions, so I think it would be better to get one qualified reply than to ask in a forum.

Here is my situation. Frame-off restoration of my 91 9C1 came to the stage of engine installation -LT1 engine from his 93 Camaro. Actually, engine isn't "old" itself - it was rebuilt to stock specs by one of local speed shops and mileage after that is just 300 miles... The problem is in exhaust. LT1 comes with Edelbrock TES headers... Yeah, I already know that they sucks but it was for free, so as a temporary solution should be more or less OK. I mean, I have further plans of performance rebuilding this engine during winter, but at the moment I wish just to see car running and THEN go to the next level... So, the headers are just the part of problem. As the car is 1991, it has a single-sided exhaust and what is much worse - it was repaired by previous owner using muffler and over-axle pipe from crappy Soviet car! I'm not sure if it is useable at all with new engine, LOL =))) So, I'm currently in search for catback.

That's the story. Here are the questions:

1. What is required to fit those headers to aftermarket catback, if cats are already removed? I mean is it possible to use '91 downpipe for temporary solution, i.e.? Or new pipes must be fabricated from headers to catback?

2. I checked Summit's inventory and found that cheapest available is Pypes Race Pro ($368) while Pypes Street Pro is $50 more. As far as I understand, they are exactly the same 2.5" systems with only difference in mufflers used. Could you provide any information about these systems? First of all, I'm afraid of TOO loud exhaust on a street car (so "Race Pro" or "Violator" sounds a bit scary) but I also want to get the reasonable best in performance too... Here are the links for your reference:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PYE-SGI10R&N=700+4294924746+4294908216+4294905598+4294923429+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PYE-SGI10S&N=700+4294924746+4294908216+4294905598+4294923429+115&autoview=sku

Actually, my first choice was Flowmasters - but they are almost $200 more expensive, 2.25" instead of 2.5" diameter and also H-pipe instead of X-pipe... So, am I right in conclusion that Pypes is better choice (for both performance AND price)?

3. I've heard that on 91-93 cars it is required to replace transmission crossmember for dual exhaust to fit. Is it true? In this case, if I understand correctly, will only C.I.A. help me with their tubular crossmembers?

4. After all, is there really any noticeable difference in headers' and catback's performance or we're talking you know like about some 3-4 hp fluctuation from model to model?

Please pardon me for such long and boring post - but being a halfworld away from B-bodies birthplace I can't offer myself to tune my car in trial-and-error style: just because it would become too expensive for me =) In case you're interested, the easiest way to calculate average estimate for any auto part here - is to check Summit's price and multiply it by two...

Mr.Buick: Lets start by saying Hi, and I'm always whiling to help a member out. Might take me a day or 2 to get to it, but I will. Also, I am no expert. I just have dicked around with a few systems on these cars. I'm pretty good at working them to get them to fit, but my knowlage on how, and why they work is limited. People like Stonebreaker seam to know that sorta thing.

The Edelbrock headers are perfectly fine to use for now. they are pretty much stock manifolds, just made from tubing, instead of cast iron. A mag did a test, and saw a 2hp increase with the Edelbrocks. The stock Y pipe will work, if you just wanna see it running. It will have to be modded a lil. I know the LT1, and the LO3/LO5 had different motor mounts, and I think the LT1 sat farther back by an inch or so. Not sure on that.

Now, as far as Catbacks performance vs performance, there IS a difference. The biggest performance factor is the pipe size. The borla catback has 2.25" pipes, with 2" over the axle pipes. F*cking BOO!!!! There are a few others with 2.25" the whole way back. Now while it is an improvment with the mandrel Bent 2.25".... a mandrel bent 2.5" is not much more, and infact some can be had cheaper. If you check my ehxhaust sticky, theres a "215/franenstien" catback. Which is really just a dynomax catback, with no mufflers, or resinators, and Summit Turbo mufflers. I think you can get the 4 pipes thru Summit, by ordering 4 part numbers. I have used that Catback on my Fleetwood, and then re used it after I shortened it, on my Silver buick, but left the stock tail pipes. Guess what? the Fleetwood felt like it gained more with the use of 2.5" mandrel bent pipes, vs the 2" CRUSH bent stock over the axle pipes. Now, this was for sure the setup on lt1 cars. I donno about the TBI cars, as I never had one. I went from 89 Caddy with an olds 307(140hp) to a 94 Caddy with an LT1. The exhaust routing was the exact same on an 89 caddy, as it would be on a 91-93 caprice.

Then when you start building more power with the motor, it makes even more of a difference. with a 383, and N2O, your gonna want a Dual 3" system, atleast to the over the axle pipes. I'm actually working on a Dual 3" system on my Roadmaster, with a Summit X pipe, and Summit Long tube headers p/n G9001? The headers are the dynomax 85001/86001's, just summit boxed. The Tubular crossmember will make my custom install 10x easier. I will be doing a write up on it when I finish it. Right now I'm test fitting one set of the headers on my Red Roadmaster(winter car, not needed right now), and then stripping the sh*t paint off another set, so I can ceramic coat them. I plan on a bitchin' set of heads and cam for my car. which is what you had better be considering if you want that 383 to perform at all. Check them out,www.AdvancedInduction.com There sh*t is purely amazing. Blows the doors off many aftermarket heads, with there stock ported heads. the heads on that 93 Camaro motor are THEE heads you want for them to port.

You will need a tubular crossmember, or do option 2 or 3(more on that ina bit) CIA is not the only place that sells it, as mine was drop shipped from bowtie overdrivers. The tubular gives you alot more room, because it doesn't hang down as far as the stock lt1 unit. A tubular is the way to go, as it give more flexability in exhaust routing, and you can even shim it up for more room. which I had to do. the floor pan on 80's-96 caprices is pretty much the same. 91-96's are identical for certain. GM was not about to spend money on redisigning the floor pan for 94, with the dual exhaust. So the drivers side pipe is tight, and on LT1 cars, was crushed to hell to clear the crossmember. Check out the pipe on your 95 Impala, it will baffle you. it's crushed to half the size of a 2.25" pipe. Option 2 is to cut out a section of your cross member, and weld a plate on the top, which is not a bad idea, since a tubular will run you $300-$400 in your cost. since here it would cost about $100-$200. Other is to get an LT1 crossmember, but you need to weld a piece on the frame rails, and rill new holes.

Difference in headers? F*ck yes. Shorties suck balls, and don't do a very good job in doing so. Long tubes, or bust. The more power you start making, the more important great headers are. with a stock RPM range motor, Tri-y's seam to be king. but when you really start to rev them(over 5500) 4-1's make more power in the upper RPM's. plus, tri-y's have a 2.5" outlet, vs a 4-1 which normally has a 3" collector. The 3" collector, and a 3" exhaust will work the best on a 383, huffing the giggle gas. You will really want 1&3/4" primary tube 4-1's, but they are About $900 from CIA/Focuztech. vs the 1&5/8" primary tubes on the Summit headers, which are $90, $190 coated. For me, the Summit headers will have to do. There was a recent thread asking about flowtech headers, which got side tracked, and we ended up with so info, that a 36" long 3" collector is about optimal on these motors. 36" is about the center of the X pipe on a pypes x pipe. which is why I'm doing a 3" exhaust until the muffler inlet.

The design of a header has a big impact on how it works. Shorties don't have the primaryt length. Mid tubes are getting there, and long tubes have it. but then, I found out, that collector length plays a role as well. A longer collector seams to be better than a shorter one. A 4-1 header, with a 3" diameter collector, and only 4" long, that necks down to 2.5", is WAY to short. you need to put a 3" diameter pipe on it, for about 24"-40" or so. The big dawgs experiment with different lengths, looking for the combo that makes the motor power.

If I left anything un conclusion, please ask. I get side tracked, and forget where I'm going.

ALT-F13: Cory,

Thank you VERY much for such comprehensive explanation - actually, you made it clear to me that all my most radical plans were right.

For now we'll just install the engine with old L05/Soviet :-D exhaust - just to make sure it runs and drives. Maybe I'll even use it for a couple of weeks as I can't wait for all this to finish and to see my car on the road (not on trailer, LOL!). Then we'll redo the interior completely, install new suspension parts, rear disc brakes and after that return to engine.

And then I'll just order a 3" 4-in-1 headers with 3" exhaust and tubular crossmember. I considered full 3" CIA system, but if you say that Summit headers are still good for much less - so be it, because it already should save me almost a grand! And as far as I understand, the other things I'll need for this are:

Summit universal 3" X-pipe kit ($95)

3"in-3"out Turbo mufflers ($21 each! LOL I can't believe my eyes)

3" over-axle pipes (i found CIA for $65 each).

Is it complete or I forgot something?

So, to sum everything up, in Summit/CIA's prices it should be $190 + 95 + 21*2 + 65*2 + = roughly $450, which should mean about a $700-800 with delivery to Ukraine (as doubling the price is just an estimate and actual charges depends on weight, which isn't high for exhaust: i.e. on Flowmaster it was +$285 to Summit price). That's ABSOLUTELY amazing if I'd say that CIA 3" would end at least $2.6-2.8K with shipping and customs... Well, maybe I'll even be able not to order tubular crossmember, as there are some good welders here. We'll see that later. Oh, I forget about polished tips, but with THAT whole price a nice $145 3" set from CIA isn't looking too expensive to add as a finishing touch, after the installation will be completed.

Maybe also some flex joint pipes do good - they proved to be very helpful, as most our local speed shops testify (and being $49 each from Summit that's not huge price for safety).

Mr.Buick: Read this thread.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=206487

You really only need 2.5" over the Axle pipes, and the fit is not nearly as tight. I have done 2.5" ones, and the fit is a lil tight. I can't imagine how bad 3" is! The reason you only need 2.5", is that as the gases travel down the pipes, it cools, and then takes up less volume. Plus, if you read that thread, a very very smart engine builder, says you need to drop down to a different pipe size after 20-40" of where the primary pipes merge. It's exacly what I plan to do. There was a thread on a different forum, about a guy with his Pontic wagon, with a 455. it had a 3" system. They ran it with 3" over the axle pipes, then 2.5", and then 2.25" over the axle pipes. the Car really didn't lose much with the 2.5", and even the 2.25". It actually had a better 60' time with the 2.5" pipe.

Next PM I send(or atleast soon), I will send a picture off the parts I have to do my 3" system, and why. If you can wait a week or so, you can wait until I get it all installed on my car. I will get the Part #'s of everything I ordered. I'm going to Leave my 2.5" Spintech mufflers, and the 2.5" Over the Axle pipes on there, and put cut outs right before the mufflers.

Mr.Buick: here is a list of parts I ordered for my Exhaust.

$89.99 SUM-G9001 - summit Headers

$10.95 SUM-610130 - 3" copper collector gaskets

$16.95 SUM-G4752ID - 3-bolt Collectors, 3" ID

$31.39 HED-18701 - 3" "header extension" S pipes

$94.99 SUM-642130 - 3" universal X pipe

$26.95 SUM-670137 - 3" univeral exhaust cut out (need 2 of them).

Note, the headers are painted. Which will burn off, if you add a "-1" you will get the coated ones, but the price doubles. I urge you to coat them. I ended up just using VHT high heat Ceramic enhanced header paint, rated for up to 2000* F(not sure what that is C) Your also going to want an APR set of header bolts, as the ones that come with the headers... Suck. Also, the Gaskets that come with the headers, are margial, and likely to leak. You will want a set of Earls Pressure Master headers gaskets. Not cheap, but they are worth it. You will also want a 2nd set of the 3" "header extension" S pipes. I ordered a 2nd set, but I ordered mine in 2.5"(HED-18715, $26.95), as I'm using 2.5" mufflers, and over the axle pipes. The 3" summit turbos(sold each not in pairs) will need to be Offset in, and Offset out, not on the same side. I also ordered cut outs. Which is a Y pipe, that has a section that angles to the side, so I can open the exhaust right before the mufflers. Your also going to want about 8, 3"ID to 3"ID joints, to join the pipes together, and a few extra's incase you need to extend/shorten any pipes and re join them. Can you get 3" straight exhaust pipe over there? If not, it would be wise to order a 4' section to use just incase.

I listed them in the order of placement in the system. I will need to get you the Part # for the header bolts, header gaskets, and mufflers. I can get you the Part numbers for the 2.5" over the axle pipes, and the 3"OD to 2.5"ID reducer to hook the mufflers to them. I think you would be better off using them, as they are only $30 each side, and have more clearance. Then, when you want to pull out every last drop of power, you just open the cutouts, which are right before the mufflers. You might find that the car will only run slightly faster with exhaust going thru the mufflers.